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Scotland has its own demons with alcohol and violence. In the Buddhist faith, expectation is considered a form of suffering and living truly in the here and now is the secret to happiness. For me, the here and now of a short stay in Tasiilaq feels exciting, challenging and a wee bit exhausting. Nanook East Greenlanders are regarded by the Inuit city-dwellers of Nuuk in the west of Greenland as wild, remote folk with a somewhat barbarian lust for hunting. Both played a bouncy mix of Greenlandic pop and Abba hits over the freezer aisles filled with a diminishing range of frozen vegetables from Scandinavia, and seemed to be part supermarket, part bingo-hall.

There are strict quotas for hunting polar bears 25 each winter season in Tasiilaq.

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A mother bear with cubs is protected and the use of skidoos is not permitted. Unlike trophy-hunting or intensive farming, each part of the animal is used. And yet, recalling the events now, I realise with discomfort that I, too, am pre-emptively, protectively perhaps for the gentle and kind people that Sexual encounters in tasiilaq me into their homes, seeking to justify the killing. My friend Tommy and I had winced and looked down at the carpeted dark away from the grotesque panorama filling the cinema screen with seal pups and whales being sliced up by harpoons and clubs and the ocean fizzing a furious red. I grew up in Dundee and now live in Leith, both urban ports that sweated through the grime and the heat of nineteenth century industrialisation thanks in part to their role in amassing crew for whaling ship voyages to the Artic and Antarctica and for processing the whale carcasses into meat, oil and bone when the ships returned.

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